I've no idea about it. Just thought it might be of interest to technically minded folk out there

There is a lot of information about Orgonite Cloudbusters and a number of tutorials on the internet.
This CB tutorial is for a simple, low-budget CB that will clear chemtrails and restore good health to the sky as well as any other.

It is assumed that the reader has at least a basic knowledge of making TBs.

Copper has long been the preferred choice for CB pipes but it has been my experience that Aluminium works just as well and is considerably cheaper.

I can make four aluminium CBs for the price of one copper CB.



You will need:

A plastic bucket about 25cm tall with a 20cm diameter base.

Six 1” diameter aluminium pipes; each 2m long.

Six quartz crystals; at least 6cm long and slim enough to slide into the pipes with ease.

These crystals may be ‘single-terminated’ or ‘double-terminated’ but the positive terminal must be pointing upwards.

If you can’t tell which terminal is negative and which is positive; it’s best to choose ST crystals as the pointed end is always the positive one.

A bucket full of shavings suitable for making orgonite.

About six kilos of polyester resin and enough catalyst to cure it.

A handful of quartz chips of the kind used for making TBs.

Two pieces of plywood for the top and bottom spacers respectively (about 9mm thick and 20cm square) and a pair of compasses for marking out the holes..

A wood-saw and an electric drill equipped with a drill-bit that can cut 1” holes in plywood (and one for 3” holes too if possible).

Some sandpaper; string; masking tape; a little lubricating oil; a plastic jug and a stick for mixing resin.

Cut the pipes to length and finish the ends smoothly.

Seal the bottom ends well with masking tape to ensure that the resin does not leak into the pipes as you cast the base.

Prepare the two plywood spacers like this:



The radius will mark out exactly six times around the circle and these points are the centers of the holes to be cut for the pipes.

Cut the holes in the plywood first then trim the spacers to shape.

I like to cut the top spacer like this (it’s easier that cutting it circular).



The top spacer is to keep the pipes aligned parallel.

This spacer will be visible when the CB is complete so you may like to finish it neatly and give it a coat of varnish or exterior paint so that it will better withstand the elements.

Cut the bottom spacer this way.



The bottom spacer locates the bases of the pipes while the orgonite base is being cast.

I try to cut away as much of the plywood as I can without weakening the template (this is where your 3” hole-cutter may come in handy).

The edges don’t need to be finished well as it will soon be incarcerated in orgonite.

If your pipes fit firmly in the holes in your two spacers and the bottom ends of your pipes are tightly sealed with masking tape; you are ready to cast the orgonite base of your CB.



Lightly oil the inside of your bucket so that it can be removed easily once the resin is cured.

Set the bucket on a level floor and cast an even 2cm layer of orgonite in the bottom.

Assemble the pipes and spacers and erect the whole arrangement in the centre of the bucket.

Stabilize the assembly (by tying it to the back of a chair with string perhaps) and adjust it so that that the pipes are standing both vertical and parallel.

When this is done; you are ready to cast the rest of the orgonite in the bucket around and amongst the pipes.

This may be done in stages; a jug of resin at a time.

I like to place quartz chips amongst the shavings here and there in the same way you would a TB.

Continue filling the bucket with shavings and resin until you achieve a depth of about 20cm; then leave it to cure thoroughly.

Ideally; the crystals should be located centrally in the pipes and be standing upright so depending on how fat your crystals are; they may need to be packed before sliding them into the pipes.

If they are rather smaller than the internal diameter of the pipes; you may like to fit a short length of plastic hose pipe around them in order that they stand centrally when in place at the bottom of the pipes.

If they are already close to the same size as the pipes; this won’t be necessary.

Another method is to cast a cylinder of orgonite around the lower part of the crystal to keep it standing vertical and central in the pipe.



There is a distinct advantage in preparing the crystals this way when a Cesco coil is placed underneath as the integrity of the coil is preserved in the orgonite matrix.

I find that Cesco coils tend to enhance the operation of a CB but they are certainly not necessary.

However you decide to prepare your crystals; make sure that they can slide easily down the inside of the pipes before committing them.

Lay the CB down, place one crystal inside each pipe then slowly stand the CB upright so that the crystals all slide gently down to the bottom.

This method of setting the crystals makes it easy to replace them at any time in the future.

Your CB is now ready for deployment.

Induction Cloudbuster Tutorial.

There is a lot of information about Orgonite Cloudbusters and a number of tutorials on the internet.

It is assumed that the reader has at least a basic knowledge of making TBs.

This CB tutorial is for an ‘Induction CB’ which was developed by Virgil Grenier and inspired by the ideas of Reich, Lakhovsky and Croft.

Although the Induction CB looks quite similar to the regular Croft CB; it has one or two very significant differences.

The Induction CB does not use any crystals in the pipes but the orgonite matrix that comprises the base of the CB contains a quantity of quartz chips at least.

Energy transfer between the pipes and orgonite base is by induction due to the fact that the pipes are fully insulated from the base whilst being in close proximity to it.

Virgil (‘Starseed’) has placed instructions for converting a standard Croft CB into an Induction CB on the Warrior Matrix website.

http://www.warriormatrix.com/viewtopic.php?t=5045&start=0

Copper has long been the preferred choice for CB pipes but it has been my experience that Aluminium works just as well and is considerably cheaper.

I can make four aluminium CBs for the price of one copper CB.



You will need:

A plastic bucket about 25cm tall with a 20cm diameter base.

Six 1” diameter aluminium pipes; each 2m long.

A bucket full of shavings suitable for making orgonite.

About six kilos of polyester resin and enough catalyst to cure it.

At least half a kilo of quartz chips of the kind used for making TBs.

Two pieces of plywood for the top and bottom spacers respectively (about 9mm thick and 20cm square) and a pair of compasses for marking out the holes.

A wood-saw and an electric drill equipped with a drill-bit that can cut 1” holes in plywood (and one for 3” holes too if possible).

Some sandpaper; string; masking tape; a little lubricating oil; a plastic jug and a stick for mixing resin.

Cut the pipes to length and finish the ends smoothly.

Seal the bottom ends well with masking tape to ensure that the resin does not leak into the pipes as you cast the base.

Insulate the outside of the bottom 20cm of the pipes with a layer of duct tape or a couple of layers of masking tape.

It is imperative that there is no contact between the pipes and the orgonite matrix.

Prepare the two plywood spacers like this:



The radius will mark out exactly six times around the circle and these points are the centers of the holes to be cut for the pipes.

Cut the holes in the plywood first then trim the spacers to shape.

I like to cut the top spacer like this (it’s easier that cutting it circular).



The top spacer is to keep the pipes aligned parallel.

This spacer will be visible when the CB is complete so you may like to finish it neatly and give it a coat of varnish or exterior paint so that it will better withstand the elements.

Cut the bottom spacer this way.



The bottom spacer locates the bases of the pipes while the orgonite base is being cast.

I try to cut away as much of the plywood as I can without weakening the template (this is where your 3” hole-cutter may come in handy).

The edges don’t need to be finished well as it will soon be incarcerated in orgonite.

If your pipes fit firmly in the holes in your two spacers; the lower 20cm are insulated and the bottom ends of your pipes are tightly sealed with masking tape; you are ready to cast the orgonite base of your CB.



Lightly oil the inside of your bucket so that it can be removed easily once the resin is cured.

Set the bucket on a level floor and cast an even 2cm layer of orgonite in the bottom.

Assemble the pipes and spacers and erect the whole arrangement in the centre of the bucket.

Stabilize the assembly (by tying it to the back of a chair with string perhaps) and adjust it so that that the pipes are standing both vertical and parallel.

When this is done; you are ready to cast the rest of the orgonite in the bucket around and amongst the pipes.

This may be done in stages; a jug of resin at a time.

Evenly distribute your quartz chips amongst the shavings as you cast the base.

Continue filling the bucket with shavings, quartz chips and resin until you achieve a depth of about 20cm; then leave it to cure thoroughly.

Your CB is now ready for deployment.

It has been suggested that the Induction CB works more strongly if the base is grounded and you may like to experiment by burying the base (no higher than the top of the orgonite block).

I prefer the operation of the CB when ungrounded in which mode it has a warm positive feel to it and a natural effect on the atmosphere.

Contact
Bali Gifting Reports

Source: http://www.baligifter.org/CbTutorial.html