Bethlehem is a Palestinian city about 45 minutes drive from Jerusalem. At least, that's about how long it should take. Like any place in the West Bank, the time to travel between almost any two given villages, towns or cities is entirely dependant on the Israeli soldiers manning the numerous checkpoints dotted around the whole area. The trip therefore, can and does regularly take hours longer, and sometimes is prevented altogether.
One day in November, while taking a break in Jerusalem from volunteer olive picking up in Nablus, a few of us decided to take a trip to Bethlehem. Sarah, my Aussie mate who had previously shown me around the Mount of Olives, had volunteered in the offices of a Palestinian peace group there for a few months, so knew the city pretty well and offered to show us around.